Tartine's Fruit Scones and Some Technical Difficulties

I'm gonna level with you here. These are without a doubt, the most complicated scones I've ever made. They require you to have loved and cared for a sourdough starter long enough that you can make a leaven the night before you even think about making the scone dough. The recipe calls for three types of flour and homemade creme fraiche or kefir although, I took the shortcut and just bought mine at the grocery store. Then there is the mixing, chilling, folding, chilling, loving, and whispering of gentle sweet nothings (that last one isn't written in the recipe, but I imagine it would probably help) that is required to make all of the flaky layers that make these scones great. That said, they are quite delicious and super tangy from the lemon zest and leaven and the combination of flours gives these a really nice complex flavor. I imagine that a couple of you out there are crazy like me and might like make a classic treat in a new way so I've provided the lengthy recipe below. If you try the it please let me know what you think in the comments!

A little programing note: I know things have been quieter than usual around here and it's because my well-loved film cameras are feeling a little under the weather. One has a crazy light leak and the other is leaving lovely stripes on all of my photos (which you can see in this post) so they are heading to Nippon Photo Clinic for a thorough cleaning and check up. Hopefully they will be back in action for when my favorite fruits and veggies start to hit the markets.

In the meantime you can keep up with me on instagram @yossyarefi where I post daily and Food52 where I write a column called Project Dessert every other week.

Thanks and Happy Spring!

Tartine's Fruit Scones
from Tartine No. 3
yield, 12 large or 24 small scones

As printed in the book, this recipe requires an obscene amount of lemon zest (10 lemons worth!) which I kind of assumed was a misprint, so I used 2 lemons worth and found the scones plenty zingy. I also added a Tablespoon of vanilla extract to the recipe, but in the end I think the sourdough and lemon zest masked the vanilla flavor so feel free to leave it out.

306 g/ 1 cup plus 5T cold unsalted butter
312 g/ 1 1/3 cups kefir or creme fraiche
306 g/ 1 1/2 cups leaven*
1 Tablespoon vanilla extract (optional)
306 g/ 1 pint berries
341 g/ 2 1/3 cups pastry flour (I used all purpose)
204 g/ 1 3/4 cups oat flour
136 g/ 1 cup plus 1T whole wheat pastry flour
1 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 Tablespoon baking powder
102 g/ 1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons sea salt
zest of 10 (or a couple) lemons
1 large egg
crunchy sugar for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 400ºF and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper

1. Cut the butter into 1/2-inch sized pieces and place in the freezer to chill. In a separate bowl or measuring cup, combine the leaven, vanilla and kefir until well mixed and place into the freezer to chill while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
2. Wash, hull and roughly chop the berries (only chop if you are using strawberries).
3. In a large bowl, combine the flours, baking soda, baking powder, sugar, lemon zest and salt. Dump the flour mixture onto a work surface or countertop and spread it into a rectangle about 1/3-inch deep. Scatter the butter cubes over the flour and toss gently to coat the butter with flour. Flour a rolling pin and begin rolling the butter into the flour. When the butter starts flattening into long, thin pieces use a bench scraper to fold the mixture back over itself into a rectangle so that is the same size that you started with. Repeat the rolling and scraping three or four times. Work quickly so the butter stays as cold as possible.
4. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add the kefir-leaven mixture all at once. Use a bench scraper to gently fold the flour into the liquid. Keep folding the mixture until it is a shaggy mass, then shape it into a rectangle about 15-inches x 21-inches. Fold the dough in thirds, then roll it back into a rectangle. Repeat the folding and rolling process then transfer the dough to a baking sheet and chill for 15 minutes.
5. Roll the dough back into a rectangle and scatter the berries on top. Use a bench scraper to fold the top, bottom, and sides of the dough over itself then roll it into an 18-inch x 15-inch rectangle about 1 1/2-inches thick. Cut the dough into 12 rectangles or 24 smaller shapes and place the cut scones onto the prepared baking sheets. Move the baking sheets to the oven and chill for 20 minutes or until firm.
6. While the scones are chilling beat the egg with a tiny pinch of salt. When the scones are chilled and ready to bake, remove them from the fridge, brush the tops with egg wash, and sprinkle with crunchy sugar. Bake until the tops are lightly browned, 25-35 minutes. Serve warm.

*to make the leaven combine 100 grams all purpose flour, 100 grams whole wheat flour, 200 grams warm water and 1 Tablespoon mature sourdough starter in a bowl, cover and let sit overnight.

 

Seeded Whole Grain Scones with Tahini

My dad used to buy chunks of halva (a dense sesame candy) from the middle eastern market in our neighborhood and I always turned my nose up at the sight of it. I wasn't a kid who shied away from strong flavors (hello, pickled garlic), but the flavor of halva was too much for my little palate to handle and I shied away from pretty much anything containing sesame seeds for a long time. Thankfully, I grew out of whatever bothered me about their flavor and now I am a huge sesame and tahini fan.

These hearty and wholesome tahini-enhanced scones contain a bit of sugar to balance all of the whole grain seediness and the slight bitter edge of the sesame paste, but it's not enough to make them truly sweet. I liked them best on the day they were baked slathered with butter and the tiniest drizzle of honey.

p.s. that cool cactus tea towel is by Amelie Mancini

Seeded Whole Grain Scones with Tahini

yield 12, 2-inch scones

The brand of tahini I used was quite liquid, if your tahini is closer to the texture of peanut or almond butter, add a couple of extra tablespoons of buttermilk. The dough should be soft but hold together after all of the liquid has been incorporated. It should also be said that these 100% whole grain scones are quite dense. If you prefer a lighter scone, substitute 1 cup of all purpose flour for either of the whole grain flours.

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1 cup rye flour

4 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

6 tablespoons assorted seeds (sesame, chia, flax, pepitas, whatever you like)

2 tablespoons non-hydrogenated shortening

4 tablespoons butter, chilled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup tahini, room temperature

Preheat oven to 375º and line a sheet pan with parchment paper

Combine the flours, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda and 4 tablespoons of the seeds in a large bowl. Use your fingers or a pastry blender to cut the butter and shortening into the dry ingredients. Combine the buttermilk and tahini in a measuring cup and whisk well to combine. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, then pour in the buttermilk mixture. Stir gently until just combined. If the mixture seems dry, add more buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough holds together. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and pat it out until it is about 1 1/2-inches thick then use a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter to cut as many rounds as possible and set them on the baking sheet. Gather the scraps, pat them together, and cut as many rounds as possible. Brush the tops of the scones with water or milk and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of seeds. Press gently to make sure the seeds adhere to the scones. Bake until golden brown 20-25 minutes. Serve warm and fresh with butter and honey.

Rhubarb and Rye Scones

These simple scones are a riff on this recipe from last summer and have a similar sweet-tart vibe going on. In this variation, the rhubarb is lightly coated in sugar before being incorporated into the dough, ensuring that it bakes up into little jammy pockets. Who doesn't love a jammy pocket? 

The addition of slightly sweet and nutty rye flour ups the wholesomeness of these scones, but they aren't quite health food, (considering they are loaded with butter, heavy cream and a bit of sugar) but they are a wonderful morning treat for those days when you need one. They'd also be a nice way to surprise your mom this weekend if she is a rhubarb fan, just sayin'.

Yes that is me up there, brandishing my rhubarb triumphantly like an Olympic torch. What can I say, I am crazy for the stuff.

Rhubarb Rye Scones
yield 8-12 scones

4.5 ounces rye flour
6 ounces all purpose flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 ounces unsalted butter
3 ounces granulated sugar (a bit less if you really like tart rhubarb flavor)
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
4-6 ounces heavy cream
2 medium stalks rhubarb, cut into 1/2'' pieces
2 Tablespoons crunchy sugar like turbinado or demerara (for sprinkling)

Preheat oven to 400ºF

1. In a small bowl, toss the rhubarb pieces with 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Set aside while you prepare the other ingredients.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, remaining sugar, salt and lemon zest. Cut in the butter with a pastry cutter or a fork until the mixture is crumbly. Gently stir in the rhubarb and it's juices if any have accumulated in the bowl.
3. Slowly and gently stir in the heavy cream until the mixture holds together, being careful not to overmix. The dough should be very soft. I usually end up using close to 6 ounces of cream.
4. For small scones, divide the dough into two pieces. On a lightly floured surface pat each piece into a round about 1'' thick and cut each round into 6-8 triangles. Alternately, pat the whole disk into a round 1'' thick and cut into desired shapes.
5. Transfer the scones to a parchment lined baking sheet about 1'' apart and brush the tops of the scones with the dregs of heavy cream leftover in the measuring cup, sprinkle the tops with crunchy sugar and bake for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the freezer and warm before eating

Fresh Currant Oat Scones

I used to bake hundereds of scones every day. Hundreds. Every morning, before the city woke up I poured myself the biggest cup of coffee I could find, and fired up two commercial ovens. Then I measured, mixed, cut, measured, mixed, cut, on repeat, for hours. I emptied 25 pound sacks of flour and 50 pound sacks of sugar into bins. I used butter by the case, buttermilk and cream by the gallon. I got strong and fast and efficient and I learned what happened when you over-mixed and under-baked pastries (bad stuff).

I liked the quiet mornings and the methodical work because once I got good at it, my mind had plenty of time to wander. I dreamt up all kinds of flavors (some more well received than others) and I loved the freedom to create, but after a few years of those mornings the thought of actually eating a scone was so incredibly unappealing that it took me nearly 7 months to even think about baking scones at home. Then it took another month for me to actually get around to it, but an extra lovely batch of red currants gave me the courage I needed to get back to sconing.

Be warned, the fresh currants make these scones quite tart, but they are excellent with a bit of butter and jam if you find them sour. I imagine they would also be delicious with a bit of lemon or orange glaze too. You can make citrus glaze by whisking about a cup of confectioner's sugar with a few tablespoons of lemon or orange juice until smooth. A bit of finely grated zest would also be a nice addition to the glaze.

Currant Oat Scones
yield, 8 scones
This recipe calls for buttermilk and heavy cream, but if you'd like to only use one type of liquid you can also 100% heavy cream. The scones may be a bit more dense and rich, but that is definitely not a bad thing.

10 ounces all purpose flour
1.5 ounces rolled oats (plus a little extra to sprinkle on top)
1.5 ounces sugar (plus a little extra to sprinkle on top)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon orange zest
3 ounces cold butter, cut into cubes
4 ounces buttermilk
4 ounces, plus 2 Tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
6 ounces red currants or other berries

Preheat oven to 425º and line a baking sheet with parchment paper

1. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, oats, sugar, salt, baking powder and orange zest. Use a pastry cutter or 2 knives to cut the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. Alternately, you can mix the dough for this step in a food processor.
2. Add the currants to the mixture and toss gently to combine. Make a well in the center of mixture and pour in the buttermilk, vanilla and the 4 ounces of heavy cream. Stir gently until just combined. The mixture should be soft and a little sticky, if it seems dry, add a few more tablespoons of buttermilk or heavy cream.
3. Working quickly, turn the dough out onto a floured surface and pat it into a circle about 1.5 inches high. Cut the circle into 8 wedges and transfer to the prepared baking sheet about 2 inches apart. Brush the tops of the scones with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cream, then sprinkle the scones with the extra oats and sugar. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until the tops are deep golden. Serve warm. The baked and cooled scones can also be stored in the freezer (wrapped tightly) for a few weeks. Warm in the oven before serving.

Honey Oat Scones

If I had to choose, I would say that scones are my favorite jam delivery vehicle. Sure, you could spread it on toast or make it into a sandwich with some peanut butter, but for true jam appreciation, scones win every time. I am partial to simple scones without dried fruit or nuts and these subtly sweet numbers sure fit the bill. I toasted the oats before adding them to the dry ingredients which gave them so much toasty, delicious flavor that I am going to try toasting some oats for my next batch of oatmeal cookies.

Honey Oat Scones
yield, about 8 scones

1 1/2c old fashioned oats
1/4c buttermilk
1/4c heavy cream
1/4c honey
1 egg
1 1/2c flour
2t baking powder
1/4t baking soda
1/2t salt
10T cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

Preheat oven to 375º

1. Evenly spread the oats onto a baking sheet and slide them into the oven to toast until fragrant and light brown (7-9 minutes). After they have cooled, remove 2T to sprinkle on top of the scones. Turn up the oven to 450 degrees.
2. In small bowl or measuring cup, whisk the buttermilk, heavy cream, honey and egg.
3. In a large bowl mix the flour, oats, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Using a fork or pastry cutter, cut the cold butter into the mixture until it resembles a coarse meal with a few larger lumps of butter.
4. Make a well in the center of the mixture and pour in the milk mixture, gently stir until a cohesive dough forms, being careful not to over mix.
5. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board and pat 1'' thick. Use a round cutter or bench scraper to cut out your scones. If you have any scraps, gently press them together and cut again.
6. Place the cut scones on a parchment lined baking sheet about 2'' apart, brush the tops with heavy cream, and sprinkle with the reserved oats. Bake the scones until golden (12-14 minutes) and cool slightly before eating.

These are best the day that they are baked, but you can store them at room temperature in an airtight container for a day or two.