Apple and Frangipane Tart

Let's dust things off here a bit, shall we? Last I checked, we were in the height of summer making berry tarts full of gorgeous warm weather things. Now the air has cooled, the leaves have started to fall and the market is chock full of apples and pears. I have already taken a customary trip upstate to pick apples (and grapes!) and am elbow deep in fall baking projects (and some other fun stuff I will share soon). I have also discovered the russet apple. Actually, I guess it would be more accurate to say that I have finally noticed the russet apple because they have been around since the 1800s. They are pretty unassuming as far as apples go with rough, leathery skin, but the flavor is unbeatable. Beyond that gnarly exterior is super firm white flesh with hints of maple and nuts and I am already dreaming about the crumb topped pie I am going to make with them... If you live in NY, you can find russet apples at the Locust Grove stand on Wednesdays at the Union Square Greenmarket.

The first thing I made with my russets was this wonderfully simple tart from Izy Hossack's new book, Top with Cinnamon. It comes together quickly in one bowl (well, actually it's a saucepan, but you get my drift) and it's gluten free. The original recipe called for sliced plums, which would be totally delicious, but I wanted to put my russets to work so I used one of those instead. I'm sure the tart would be equally lovely with pears or any other fruit, really.

For more fall recipes, check out the round-up I put together last year here.

In other news, I finally joined Steller. If you like, join me there for fun food and travel stories, username: yossyarefi.

p.s. Will any of you NYC folks be participating in Enid's annual Apple Pie Contest on October 19 Maybe I'll see you there...

Apple Frangipane Tart
adapted from Top with Cinnamon by Izy Hossack

90 grams (3 ounces, 6 tablespoons) unsalted butter
140 grams (5 ounces, 2/3 cup) granulated sugar
4 tablespoons maple syrup
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
95 grams (3 1/4 ounce, 1 cup) ground almonds
70 grams (2 1/2 ounces, 3/4 cup) oat flour
1 large baking apple, sliced thinly
1 tablespoon confectioner's sugar

Preheat oven to 180ºC/350ºF. Grease and line a 7x10 or 8x8 inch baking pan with parchment. I used a 10-inch tart pan that worked well. Don't skip the parchment paper!

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Remove from heat and stir in the sugar and syrup. Beat in the egg, almond extract, salt and baking powder. Stir in the almonds and oat flour until smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and arrange the apple slices on top in a decorative pattern. Bake the tart for 25-30 minutes until golden. Cool the tart for 15 minutes then dust with the confectioner's sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.

Campfire Crisp

A few weeks ago, some friends gathered upstate on a perfect fall day for a pig roast. While the men folk manned the rotisserie I go to work on dessert, and inspired by Kelsey's camp cobbler, I decided to give dutch oven cooking a try. I still had a mess of apples left from my apple picking adventure and I knew a crisp would be just the thing to feed our crowd so I packed up all of the dry ingredients for my favorite crisp topping in a ziploc bag then mushed (technical term) the butter in when I was ready to bake. For the fruit portion of the equation, I chopped up the apples and tossed them in a buttered dutch oven with a lonely quince, a handful of concord grapes, and a bit of sugar and spice. I put the dutch oven over indirect heat, put some coals on top, and hoped for the best.

Campfire Apple, Concord & Quince Crisp

Make sure to not let the dutch oven sit directly on the fire and check it every 10 minutes or so to see if it needs to be rotated away from the flame, a set of heavy duty fire gloves works great for this. If you don't have quince or concord grapes, just use an extra apple or two.

5 pounds baking apples, about 10 - peeled (or not) and chopped into medium pieces
1 medium quince - peeled, cored and finely chopped
1 cup concord grapes cut in half and seeded
juice and zest of one lemon
juice and zest of half of an orange
1/2-2/3 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon salt

Crisp Topping 

6 ounces soft butter
3.5 ounces rolled oats
2.25 ounces all purpose flour
2.25 ounces whole wheat flour
5 ounces brown sugar
1/4t baking soda
1/2t salt

Combine all of the filling ingredients in a dutch oven with a lid.

In a large bowl, combine the oats, flours, sugar, baking soda and salt. Add in the butter and use your hands to work it into the mixture until it holds together in medium-sixed clumps. Sprinkle it evenly over the filling. Alternately, pack all of the dry ingredients in a ziploc bag, then when you are ready to bake, toss in the soft butter and mush it all around until it is evenly incorporated.

Place the dutch oven on a few rocks above the fire, then put about 5 (big) hot coals on the lid. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is browned, rotating every 10 minutes or so to ensure even cooking.

And yes, that is the back end of a whole pig up there in that photo. Sorry if anyone is offended by that image.

Fresh Currant Oat Scones

I used to bake hundereds of scones every day. Hundreds. Every morning, before the city woke up I poured myself the biggest cup of coffee I could find, and fired up two commercial ovens. Then I measured, mixed, cut, measured, mixed, cut, on repeat, for hours. I emptied 25 pound sacks of flour and 50 pound sacks of sugar into bins. I used butter by the case, buttermilk and cream by the gallon. I got strong and fast and efficient and I learned what happened when you over-mixed and under-baked pastries (bad stuff).

I liked the quiet mornings and the methodical work because once I got good at it, my mind had plenty of time to wander. I dreamt up all kinds of flavors (some more well received than others) and I loved the freedom to create, but after a few years of those mornings the thought of actually eating a scone was so incredibly unappealing that it took me nearly 7 months to even think about baking scones at home. Then it took another month for me to actually get around to it, but an extra lovely batch of red currants gave me the courage I needed to get back to sconing.

Be warned, the fresh currants make these scones quite tart, but they are excellent with a bit of butter and jam if you find them sour. I imagine they would also be delicious with a bit of lemon or orange glaze too. You can make citrus glaze by whisking about a cup of confectioner's sugar with a few tablespoons of lemon or orange juice until smooth. A bit of finely grated zest would also be a nice addition to the glaze.

Currant Oat Scones
yield, 8 scones
This recipe calls for buttermilk and heavy cream, but if you'd like to only use one type of liquid you can also 100% heavy cream. The scones may be a bit more dense and rich, but that is definitely not a bad thing.

10 ounces all purpose flour
1.5 ounces rolled oats (plus a little extra to sprinkle on top)
1.5 ounces sugar (plus a little extra to sprinkle on top)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon orange zest
3 ounces cold butter, cut into cubes
4 ounces buttermilk
4 ounces, plus 2 Tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
6 ounces red currants or other berries

Preheat oven to 425º and line a baking sheet with parchment paper

1. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, oats, sugar, salt, baking powder and orange zest. Use a pastry cutter or 2 knives to cut the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. Alternately, you can mix the dough for this step in a food processor.
2. Add the currants to the mixture and toss gently to combine. Make a well in the center of mixture and pour in the buttermilk, vanilla and the 4 ounces of heavy cream. Stir gently until just combined. The mixture should be soft and a little sticky, if it seems dry, add a few more tablespoons of buttermilk or heavy cream.
3. Working quickly, turn the dough out onto a floured surface and pat it into a circle about 1.5 inches high. Cut the circle into 8 wedges and transfer to the prepared baking sheet about 2 inches apart. Brush the tops of the scones with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cream, then sprinkle the scones with the extra oats and sugar. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until the tops are deep golden. Serve warm. The baked and cooled scones can also be stored in the freezer (wrapped tightly) for a few weeks. Warm in the oven before serving.

Emmer Wheat Bread

In our apartment, each season comes with it's own pattern of light that travels across the floors and up the walls as the days get shorter and shorter. There were a few choice shots on the last roll of film I took that proved, despite this weird warm weather we have been having, fall is here in earnest. At last, it's time to wear sweaters and eat soup and bake lots and lots of bread to eat with all of the lovely jams that we put up all summer. I ate these hearty rolls with apple butter and made some pretty excellent tomato sandwiches with the last of the summer tomatoes.

Emmer Wheat Bread adapted from Beard on Bread
yield: 2 small loaves or 16-20 dinner rolls

4 1/2t yeast
1T sugar
2c warm water (110ºF-115ºF)
4T butter
2T molasses
1 1/2T salt
3c hard wheat flour (I used hard red wheat)
2 1/2-3c emmer wheat flour (whole wheat would work here too)
1 egg beaten, for egg wash
oats or seeds to sprinkle
2T melted butter, if making rolls

1. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 1/2c of the warm water and let proof while you prepare the other ingredients.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the melted butter, remaining warm water, molasses and salt. Then add the yeast mixture.
3. Add the whole wheat flour and 2c of the emmer wheat flour to a large bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer, then stir in the yeast mixture. If the dough seems very sticky and soft add more emmer flour, a few tablespoons at a time, until you have a soft and tacky, but not sticky dough. I used an entire cup of additional flour.
4. Continue to knead the dough in the stand mixer or by hand for about 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and supple. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl and let rise in a warm, draft free area until doubled in size, about an hour.
5. After it has risen, gently press the dough to remove air bubbles, at this point you can divide the dough into two loaves, or 16-20 rolls.
6. To make the rolls, divide the dough into 16-20 even portions and roll into balls. Roll the balls in melted butter and place them in a 13x9 baking dish and cover loosely with a towel to rise. To form loaves, pat each 1/2 of the dough into a rectangle about 6'' wide and 8'' long on a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough from the short side, away from you, pinching the crease each time the dough meets itself. Gently place each loaf into a lightly greased loaf pan, seam side down, and cover loosely with a towel to rise. For both loaves and rolls, let the dough rise in a warm draft free spot until doubled in size. While the dough is rising a second time preheat your oven to 425ºF.
7. After the dough has risen a second time, brush the loaves or rolls with an egg wash and sprinkle seeds or oats on the top to garnish. Slide the bread into the oven and bake for 10 minutes, then lower the oven to 375ºF and bake the loaves for an additional 20-30min until they are browned and sound hollow when tapped. The rolls will need about 10-15 minutes at 375ºF and are done when they are nicely browned on top. Let cool before slicing.

Notes:

My brother and sister in law are excellent gift givers and they sent me a box chock full of fun, food goodies including a variety of flours including the hard red wheat and emmer that I used in this recipe. Feel free to substitute whole wheat flour for either or both, although you may need more water than is called for here. Also, emmer flour is quite low in gluten and the bread will rise less than traditional whole wheat dough.

Brown Butter Apple Pie Bars

I'm a big fan of the portable dessert: brownies, cookies, hand pies, things that can be eaten with your hands and are easy to transport and share. I made these bars from a mishmash of recipes for a friend's work shop opening/birthday shindig/end of summer extravaganza where there was a whole roast lamb, grilled corn on the cob, coolers full of frosty cold ones, and lots of revelers. When I unwrapped the dishtowel protecting these babies, the call of brown butter must have been irresistible because they were gone before I could even get a photo of them in the pan. I'm sure I don't have to tell you guys this, but sometimes food tastes best when scooped up with a plastic fork and washed down with an icy cold beer, napkins optional of course.


Brown Butter Apple Pie Bars
yield: one 13''x9'' pan, 24-30 bars
Note (9.10.2012): I have made these bars quite a few times since originally publishing this recipe and have found that you can reduce the butter in the crust to 12T, omit the butter in the filling, and substitute up to 3/4 whole wheat flour in both the crust and the crumb topping with no adverse results. In fact, I think the addition of whole wheat flour makes these bars taste better!

For the Brown Butter, Brown Sugar Shortbread Crust
adapted from Alice Medrich

14T butter, cut into cubes
1/2c brown sugar
2t vanilla extract
1/2t salt
2c flour

Preheat your oven to 350º and line a 13''x9'' baking dish with greased foil or parchment paper.

1. Brown the butter over medium heat in a small saucepan, stirring frequently until the milk solids turn light brown and the butter has a nutty fragrance. Set aside to cool slightly.
2. When the butter has cooled a bit add it to a medium bowl and add in the brown sugar, salt, and vanilla and stir. Add the flour and mix until completely combined, don't worry if the mixture seems a little greasy. Press it into the prepared pan and bake it until it is golden, about 20 minutes. Set the baked crust aside to cool.

While the crust is baking and cooling prepare the filling

Apple Filling
adapted from CakeSpy

2T butter
1/4c brown sugar
6 large apples, peeled and cut into thin slices (I used ginger golds and macintosh, but any pie apples would work)
1T cinnamon
1/4t freshly grated nutmeg
pinch salt

1. Melt the butter and the sugar in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the apples stirring occasionally until they have softened and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add the spices and salt, then stir well to combine.

Crumb Topping
adapted from CakeSpy

1 1/2c oats
1c flour
3/4c light brown sugar
1t cinnamon
1/4t baking soda
3/8t salt
12T butter, softened

1. In a large bowl combine the oats, flour, sugar, cinnamon, baking soda and salt, then add in the butter and mix with your hands until it holds together in clumps.

To Assemble

Spread the apple mixture evenly over the prepared crust, then top with the crumble mixture and press down lightly.
Bake the bars at 375º for 30-40 minutes until the crumb topping is golden. Cool completely before cutting into 24-30 squares.

Honey Oat Scones

If I had to choose, I would say that scones are my favorite jam delivery vehicle. Sure, you could spread it on toast or make it into a sandwich with some peanut butter, but for true jam appreciation, scones win every time. I am partial to simple scones without dried fruit or nuts and these subtly sweet numbers sure fit the bill. I toasted the oats before adding them to the dry ingredients which gave them so much toasty, delicious flavor that I am going to try toasting some oats for my next batch of oatmeal cookies.

Honey Oat Scones
yield, about 8 scones

1 1/2c old fashioned oats
1/4c buttermilk
1/4c heavy cream
1/4c honey
1 egg
1 1/2c flour
2t baking powder
1/4t baking soda
1/2t salt
10T cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

Preheat oven to 375º

1. Evenly spread the oats onto a baking sheet and slide them into the oven to toast until fragrant and light brown (7-9 minutes). After they have cooled, remove 2T to sprinkle on top of the scones. Turn up the oven to 450 degrees.
2. In small bowl or measuring cup, whisk the buttermilk, heavy cream, honey and egg.
3. In a large bowl mix the flour, oats, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Using a fork or pastry cutter, cut the cold butter into the mixture until it resembles a coarse meal with a few larger lumps of butter.
4. Make a well in the center of the mixture and pour in the milk mixture, gently stir until a cohesive dough forms, being careful not to over mix.
5. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board and pat 1'' thick. Use a round cutter or bench scraper to cut out your scones. If you have any scraps, gently press them together and cut again.
6. Place the cut scones on a parchment lined baking sheet about 2'' apart, brush the tops with heavy cream, and sprinkle with the reserved oats. Bake the scones until golden (12-14 minutes) and cool slightly before eating.

These are best the day that they are baked, but you can store them at room temperature in an airtight container for a day or two.

Anything Goes Granola

Homemade granola is where its at. It's one of those awesome, good for you foods, that is simple to make at home and infinitely better than the stuff you can buy at the grocery store (even the really expensive ones). You can easily adapt it to your tastes and it makes your whole house smell heavenly for hours afterward. I like a lot of mix-ins in mine, but if you would like yours to be more oat heavy feel free to cut back the fruit, nuts, and seeds by a few tablespoons. In this batch I used pecans, pepitas, flax seeds, raw buckwheat, cherries and golden raisins. Other great combos are almonds, cherries and vanilla (just add 1t of vanilla extract to the syrup mix) or try hazelnuts, apricots and a bit of chocolate. You could even add a bit of lemon or orange zest to the syrup mixture to lighten it up a bit, the possibilities really are endless. Go forth and make your own cereal!

Anything Goes Granola

2 cups rolled oats
1t cinnamon
1/4t nutmeg
1t salt
3T oil
1/4c honey. maple syrup, agave, or golden syrup (I used maple and golden)
1/4c brown sugar
1/2 cup chopped nuts (pecans, almonds, hazelnuts, go wild)
2/3 cup dried fruit my faves are tart cherries and golden raisins
1/4 cup seeds (optional) I used flax, pepitas, sunflower and raw buckwheat, sesame seeds would be great too

Preheat oven to 325 and line a baking sheet with parchment or a silpat mat
In a large bowl combine the oats, salt, and spices
In a medium bowl (or measuring cup) combine the oil, syrups, and sugar
Pour mixture over the oats and stir well to combine, or just use your hands
Pour the oats onto a baking sheet and press with your hands
Bake for 15 min, then gently stir (the more you stir, the less clumpy and delicious your finished granola will be), then sprinkle the nuts over the granola
Continue to bake, stirring every 7 minutes or so until the granola is deep golden, about 20 minutes
Let the granola cool completely, then gently mix in the seeds and dried fruit. If you are using sesame seeds, mix them in the granola about 5 minutes before you take it out of the oven to toast them a bit.

Keeps in an airtight container on the counter for about a week, or in the freezer for about a month.