Thanksgiving

I've never hosted Thanksgiving dinner so I can't give you any tips on how to roast the juiciest bird or make the fluffiest mashed potatoes (I like them chunky anyway), but I do know how to make some killer Thanksgiving pies. I like to keep it pretty traditional for turkey day and I also like to give people options, so I think I'll end up making some classic pumpkin pies with lots of whipped cream and simple apple tarts with creme fraiche to feed the crowd I'll be dining with this year. I might even get wild and throw some quince or cranberries into my apple tarts, but I think I'll take the temperature of my dinner companions before going for it. I'd love to hear your plans in the comments!

If you are still pondering your own Thanksgiving menu, here are a few recipes from the archives that would be great additions to your holiday spread. Don't forget, you can make pie crust days in advance and freeze it, well wrapped. Just make sure to give the crusts at least 8 hours to defrost in the refrigerator before you roll them out to make your pies.

Apple and Quince Gingerbread
Apple, Quince and Cranberry Pie
Buttermilk Biscuits
Caramelized Pumpkin Puddings (GF)
Classic Apple Pie
Cranberry Quince Preserves (GF)
Persimmon Bread
Quince Custard Cake
Quince Frangipane Tartlets
Quince Upside Down Cake
Skillet Cornbread with Jalapeño Honey Butter (GF)
Squash Harvest Bread
Whole Wheat Cheese Straws

All of these photos are from Thanksgiving 2011 at the beautiful home of a friend in Connecticut. We'll be there again this year and I can't wait!

Special thanks to the reader who gave me the tip about finding winter luxury pumpkins in NYC. I bought three from Tamarack Hollow Farm last Wednesday at the Union Square Greenmarket and I can't wait to roast them and turn them into pie!

Caramelized Pumpkin Puddings

I generally use roasted butternut squash for any holiday baking that calls for pumpkin purée. Personally, I think sugar pumpkins are pretty flavorless and not really worth the effort, but that was before I met the winter luxury (a pretty sexy name for a squash if you ask me). They are an heirloom variety that I had never seen before a trip up to Maine to assist a shoot that was covering the Common Ground County Fair last month. There was a beautiful farmer's market at the entrance to the fair with quite a few varieties of heirloom squash that I hadn't seen before and I couldn't resist bringing a few back to New York with me (big surprise). My hands down favorite was the winter luxury, a curious little pumpkin covered with netting like a melon that I admired my on my mantle for about a week before I gave in and decided to make something with it. When I cut it open the flesh was beautifully orange and when roasted it was smooth with hints of caramel and toffee. It was so naturally sweet and tasty that I ate the leftover puree plain as I stood over the stove whisking this very pudding. The pudding below is a perfect foil for the winter luxury's smooth texture and flavor, but if you aren't up to roasting your own pumpkin, canned will do just fine just don't skip the caramelization step.

p.s. Does anyone in have a winter luxury supplier in New York? I haven't been able to find them at my local farmer's market and I would love to find a few more before Thanksgiving.

Caramelized Pumpkin Puddings with Brown Sugar Cream and Seeded Brittle
yield 6-8 individual parfaits
If you'd like to roast your own pumpkin for this recipe here is a great tutorial from Aimee at Simple Bites. The caramelization technique below comes from Meta Given by way of Food52 and it is a winner.

Caramelized Pumpkin Pudding

1 1/2 cups roasted pumpkin puree
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup sugar
3 large egg yolks
3 Tablespoons cornstarch
pinch salt
1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon allspice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Spoon the pumpkin puree into a saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly for about 10 minutes or until the puree looks slightly dry and caramelized. Keep warm while you prepare the pudding.
2. In a bowl or measuring cup, whisk the milk, cream and egg yolks. In medium saucepan whisk together the sugar, salt and cornstarch then whisk in the milk mixture, followed by the vanilla bean seeds and pod.
3. Cook the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly until it has thickened and is bubbling gently, 8-12 minutes.
4. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the warm pumpkin puree, spices and butter. Remove the vanilla bean pod and save it for another use. Pour the pudding into a dish and cover the surface with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until completely cool.

Brown Sugar Cream

1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract, bourbon or rum

Combine the cream, brown sugar, and extract or booze in a large mixing bowl and whip until medium peaks form.

Seeded Brittle 

I used this recipe and added in 2 tablespoons of sesame seeds with the pepitas.

To Assemble

Whisk the chilled pudding until smooth, then layer it with the whipped cream in pretty glasses. Top with a few shards of brittle right before the puddings are served.

Thanksgiving in Connecticut

Every year that I've lived in New York I've done something different for Thanksgiving. I quite enjoy going from place to place, seeing how other families celebrate and I always feel honored when I am asked to participate in their traditions. This year we spent the holiday at the home of a dear friend in Connecticut and it was amazing. The house has the most incredible kitchen with a big, solid cast iron stove, a larder, and even a butler's pantry full of dishes from all over the world. Its one of those places that is so full of positive warm energy that it is impossible not to have a fabulous time. When my hosts found out that I was a baker by trade they asked me to dream up some desserts for a few dinners including Thanksgiving and I was more than happy to pitch in. I kept my Turkey Day pies pretty traditional, two pumpkin and apple with all butter crusts, and topped them with freshly whipped cream. So what if the crusts got a little burnt because my designated oven turner-downer got distracted while engrossed in a good book, the apple pie pictured here fared far better than the pumpkin. These weren't my best looking pies ever, but the plates were licked clean and we were all contently stuffed and in bed before 10pm. The next day we made brownie sundaes with hot fudge and salted caramel sauce (for 20) but it was too dark to snap a photo. Needless to say, they were a big hit.

All Butter Crust from here
Apple Filling from here
Pumpkin Filling from here plus a few grates of nutmeg