Gingery Pickled Beets

These beets serve as my opening ceremony to this year's canning season and the recipe comes from my original canning inspiration's new cookbook, Food in Jars. When a review copy of Marisa's beautiful book showed up in the mail I first squealed like a little school girl, then I got to work marking all of the recipes I couldn't wait to try. I started with this recipe for gorgeous ruby red beets in a gently spiced brine which temporarily stained my stovetop with bright magenta splatters (entirely my fault). Oh, and I totally jumped the gun on letting these guys rest. I opened a jar after only three days and topped my lunch salad with a few beets and they were just as bright and spicy from the sliced ginger as I'd hoped they would be. I'm sure they'll be even more delicious after a few more days in their vinegary bath.

Thank you Marisa for this gorgeous book, I can't wait to use it all summer long!

Gingery Pickled Beets
from Food in Jars by Marisa McClellan
yield, 3 finished pints of beets

The only changes I made to this beautiful recipe were to use wide mouth jars (my local hardware store only carries wide mouth jars, no idea why) and I sliced a jar worth of beets into rounds instead of wedges to pickle and give to my Aussie Burger loving pal. I also had a bit of extra brine that I tossed in a jar with some sugar snap peas I had laying around. 

2 lbs red beets
2 cups apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons pickling salt
1 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 2'' piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

Scrub the beets, removing the greens and long roots (save the greens, they're edible!). Place the beets in a pot and cover with water. Simmer over medium heat until the beets are just tender, about 30-45 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. When the beets are cool enough to handle, rub the skins off with your fingers. (Wear plastic gloves or resealable plastic bags on your hands if you are averse to pink-stained skin.) Trim the unwieldy ends, cut the beets into wedges, and set aside.

Prepare a boiling water bath and sterilize 3 regular-mouth 1-pint jars. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.

Combine vinegar, 2 cups of waer, salt, sugar, cinnamon stick and ginger slices in a pot and bring the brine to a boil.

Meanwhile, pack the beet wedges into the sterilized jars. Slowly pour the hot brine over the beets in each jar (making sure to include 2-3 ginger slices in each jar), leaving 1/2'' headspace. Gently tap the jars on a towel-lined countertop to help loosen any bubbles before using a wooden chopstick to dislodge any remaining bubbles. Check the headspace again and add more brine if necessary.

Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.

Let the pickles cure for at least 1 week before eating.

Whole Wheat Cheese Straws

I've said it before and I'll say it again; I rarely turn down an invitation to dinner. For me, there is no better way to spend an evening than sitting around a table and chatting over food and a few cocktails. I especially love being able to give the host a hand by contributing something to the meal (when they ask!), but I have a few guidelines I like to stick to, to keep things easy on myself. Most of my rules stem from the fact that I travel pretty exclusively on public transportation (or on foot), but I think the general rules can apply to folks with cars too.

Yossy's Rules for Food-to-Go

1. Don't bring anything too heavy or hard to carry: no one wants you to show up to a party sweaty and red faced because you've been hauling around 3 bottles of wine and a cast iron skillet full of cornbread.
2. Don't bring anything that needs to be cooked on site. Your host is probably going to be using the oven and stove, so don't try to sneak in the dumplings that you just have to pan fry to order or use their stand mixer to mash your potatoes.
3. On that note, nothing messy or saucy. Take something liquid, add in a subway transfer and a few block walk and you've got distaster written on your forehead, and spilled on your party shoes.
4. Handheld treats rule them all! Cookies, brownies, little pies, spiced mixed nuts, freshly baked dinner rolls, any veggie side that can be served room temperature, a salad with the dressing sealed up in an a mason jar, a delicious piece of cheese and a loaf of bread, you get where I am going here.

*Bonus points if you can transport your dish in the container you are going to serve it in.
**Double points if you remember to bring the host a gift. I love to share my jam and preserves and they make great host gifts for folks who love food.

These cheesy straws were the other half of my party contribution last weekend and they are my new favorite snack to eat with cocktails, not to mention that they followed all of my Food-to-Go Rules. They were simple to put together, easy to eat and transport and a real crowd pleaser. The whole wheat flour made a perfect base for all peppery, cheesy, buttery flavor packed into these crackers and I knew they were going to be a hit after I "taste tested" most of the first batch that came out of the oven.

What are your favorite foods to bring to a party?

Whole Wheat Cheese Straws
yield, about 50 straws depending on how you slice them

4.5 ounces whole wheat flour
2.25 ounces all purpose flour
1/8 ounce salt
1/4 ounce aleppo pepper (or to taste)
1/8 ounce cracked black pepper
1/8 ounce cayenne pepper
3 ounces cold, unsalted butter cut into small pieces
1.5 ounces sour cream or creme fraiche
3 ounces finely grated parmesan cheese
6 ounces finely grated cheddar cheese (I used a sharp white cheddar)
flaky salt for sprinkling (optional)

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer combine the flours, salt and spices.
2. Add in the cold butter and mix until the mixture resembles coarse sand with a few chunks of butter. Add in the sour cream and mix until well combined.
3. Add in bowl cheeses and mix until just incorporated. The dough should hold together when you squeeze it together with your hands. If it doesn't just add some milk or water to the mixture one teaspoon at a time until it comes together. Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap and form into a disc. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to overnight before rolling and baking the straws.
4. When you are ready to roll and bake the straws preheat your oven to 350º and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats. Split the chilled dough into two pieces. Working with one half of the dough at a time, on a lightly floured surface roll it into a rough rectangle about 1/8'' thick. If your kitchen is warm, you may find that rolling the dough between two sheets of parchment or waxed paper is easier.
5. Using a pastry wheel or pizza cutter, cut the dough into strips 1/4''-1/2'' wide. Gently place the strips onto the prepared baking sheets about 1/4'' apart and sprinkle with flaky salt (optional). They won't spread much width wise, but they will puff up a bit. The dough is pretty delicate from all of that cheese and butter, so don't worry if the strips crack or break when you move them. Repeat with the other half of the dough
6. Slide the cheese straws into the oven and bake for 12-15 minutes or until lightly golden. I baked mine for 14 minutes because I like them nice and crispy and caramelized, but you may like them less "done".

Michelada Brunch: Austin, TX

A few weeks ago I made my way down to Austin, TX for the second time in as many years. My last trip was to celebrate the marriage of two of my favorite folks and bake them a wedding cake, on a ranch no less! This go-round was a more urban adventure because I was lucky enough to tag along with my boyfriend when he went down to work at SXSW.



He and his crew had lots of work to do recording bands during the day, so I busied myself listening to music, eating tacos and bbq and drinking Micheladas wherever I went. I also dutifully stood by the gear while the guys went to get the van and occasionally fed the parking meter, you know, to earn my keep.

Instead of a hotel, we all stayed together in a little cabin compound with cool modern furniture, outdoor showers for the adventurous and a white fluffy rug whose fibers I am still finding stuck to my clothes, like sand from a beach vacation. Tough life, I know.



After a long week of work, those guys earned themselves a boozy, bacon filled breakfast and since we were staying in a house with a full kitchen and I love cooking a morning meal for a crowd,  I was happy to oblige. It's always a little disorienting cooking in someone else's space so I decided to keep it simple: soft scrambled eggs, a heap of crispy bacon, my favorite fluffy buttermilk biscuits, some Texas citrus, and lots of coffee and Micheladas. Have you ever had a Michelada? They are spicy beer cocktails that I've had a pretty serious love affair with since the last time we visited Texas.

I spent the rest of our trip falling so in love with a man named Sam, some Moonpies, the White Horse and beer koozies that I'll forgive Austin for what it's humidity did to my curly hair. Can't wait to see you again, Austin.



Bonus dog photo! You can call him Dude, or maybe His Dudeness, or Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing. Special thanks to Shawn, Pete and Ellie for taking some of these photos while I was cooking for the crew.

Buttermilk Biscuits
adapted from Alton Brown
yield 1 dozen

2c flour (White Lily brand if you can find it)
4t baking powder
1/4t baking soda
3/4t salt
2T butter, chilled
2T non-hydrogenated shortening (or butter), chilled
1c buttermilk, chilled

Preheat oven to 450º

1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
2. With your fingers, or a pastry cutter, mix the butter and shortening into the flour mixture until it looks crumbly.
3. Make a well in the center of the mixture and pour in the buttermilk, mix until just combined. The dough should be sticky.
4. Dump the dough out onto a well floured surface and gently fold the dough over itself five or six times. Pat the dough out 1'' thick and cut with a 2-3'', floured biscuit cutter.
5. Place biscuits, barely touching, on a sheet pan and bake for 15-20 min or until golden brown on top and cooked through.

Michelada (Beer Cocktail)
Serves 1

This isn't really a recipe, but this is how I like to make them.

Take a chilled pint glass and rim it with salt (lime salt would be great here if you have it), if you have something larger than a pint, even better. Fill the glass half full of ice cubes and add a few tablespoons of tomato juice, the juice of a lime, a few shakes of Worcestershire sauce, as many shakes of hot sauce as you can stand (I like Cholula or Tapatio), a few grinds of fresh black pepper and a pinch of salt. Top with a 12oz Mexican beer (I like Modelo Especial) and half of one of the limes you squeezed for their juice, give it a gentle stir and enjoy. You won't be able to fit the whole beer in a pint glass, so if you use one just add the rest of the beer in as you drink the cocktail. I've also heard a few shakes of Maggi Seasoning are a delicious addition, but haven't been able to find it.

Curried Cheddar Gougéres

I've been trying to write this post about curried, cheesy party snacks for two days, but all I can think about is how I just became an aunt! Two times over! I've been thinking about how my brother is a father to two beautiful girls and my parents are now grandparents and my sister-in-law is a superhero for carrying around those little ladies for nine months. I keep thinking that there are two sweet new babies that I get to go to visit in Seattle to smother in kisses and cuddles as often as I can make it. I keep thinking that I should have made a mountainous birthday cake a few nights ago instead of these curried cheese puffs, but here we are, with party snacks instead of birthday cake. Things could definitely be worse. These tasty little gems are made by mixing together simple ingredients in time tested proportions, then spiced up, cheesed up, heated up, and eaten up, preferably with an icy cold beer.

Curried Cheddar Gougéres
yield about 36 gougéres

1c water
8T butter, cut into slices
1c flour
1t curry powder
1/2-1t aleppo pepper
1/8-1/4t cayenne pepper
1/2t salt
1/4t black pepper
4 large eggs
1 1/4c shredded cheddar cheese

Preheat oven to 425º and line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats

1. In a medium saucepan over medium high heat, bring the butter and water to a boil then lower the heat a bit.
2. Add the flour, salt and spices and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together into a smooth mass and smells a bit toasty. Remove the pan from the heat and stir the mixture occasionally until it is cooled slightly, about 3min.
3. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring until each egg is thoroughly mixed in to the flour mixture. Then add 1c of the cheese and stir well to combine.
4. Using a piping bag with a large round tip or two spoons, portion the mixture onto the prepared baking sheets in to tablespoon sized mounds about 2 inches apart. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/4c cheese and bake the gougéres for 5min then turn the oven down to 375º and continue to bake until they are golden brown, 20-25min. Serve warm.

Notes:

- These are great snacks that can be prepared in advance. Just pipe the goúgeres onto lined baking sheets freeze until firm enough to handle, then place them in a zipper bag and freeze. Cook as directed above, allowing a few more minutes of cook time.
- You can also bake them in advance, freeze them and warm them in a low oven when your guests arrive.

Emmer Wheat Bread

In our apartment, each season comes with it's own pattern of light that travels across the floors and up the walls as the days get shorter and shorter. There were a few choice shots on the last roll of film I took that proved, despite this weird warm weather we have been having, fall is here in earnest. At last, it's time to wear sweaters and eat soup and bake lots and lots of bread to eat with all of the lovely jams that we put up all summer. I ate these hearty rolls with apple butter and made some pretty excellent tomato sandwiches with the last of the summer tomatoes.

Emmer Wheat Bread adapted from Beard on Bread
yield: 2 small loaves or 16-20 dinner rolls

4 1/2t yeast
1T sugar
2c warm water (110ºF-115ºF)
4T butter
2T molasses
1 1/2T salt
3c hard wheat flour (I used hard red wheat)
2 1/2-3c emmer wheat flour (whole wheat would work here too)
1 egg beaten, for egg wash
oats or seeds to sprinkle
2T melted butter, if making rolls

1. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 1/2c of the warm water and let proof while you prepare the other ingredients.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the melted butter, remaining warm water, molasses and salt. Then add the yeast mixture.
3. Add the whole wheat flour and 2c of the emmer wheat flour to a large bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer, then stir in the yeast mixture. If the dough seems very sticky and soft add more emmer flour, a few tablespoons at a time, until you have a soft and tacky, but not sticky dough. I used an entire cup of additional flour.
4. Continue to knead the dough in the stand mixer or by hand for about 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and supple. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl and let rise in a warm, draft free area until doubled in size, about an hour.
5. After it has risen, gently press the dough to remove air bubbles, at this point you can divide the dough into two loaves, or 16-20 rolls.
6. To make the rolls, divide the dough into 16-20 even portions and roll into balls. Roll the balls in melted butter and place them in a 13x9 baking dish and cover loosely with a towel to rise. To form loaves, pat each 1/2 of the dough into a rectangle about 6'' wide and 8'' long on a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough from the short side, away from you, pinching the crease each time the dough meets itself. Gently place each loaf into a lightly greased loaf pan, seam side down, and cover loosely with a towel to rise. For both loaves and rolls, let the dough rise in a warm draft free spot until doubled in size. While the dough is rising a second time preheat your oven to 425ºF.
7. After the dough has risen a second time, brush the loaves or rolls with an egg wash and sprinkle seeds or oats on the top to garnish. Slide the bread into the oven and bake for 10 minutes, then lower the oven to 375ºF and bake the loaves for an additional 20-30min until they are browned and sound hollow when tapped. The rolls will need about 10-15 minutes at 375ºF and are done when they are nicely browned on top. Let cool before slicing.

Notes:

My brother and sister in law are excellent gift givers and they sent me a box chock full of fun, food goodies including a variety of flours including the hard red wheat and emmer that I used in this recipe. Feel free to substitute whole wheat flour for either or both, although you may need more water than is called for here. Also, emmer flour is quite low in gluten and the bread will rise less than traditional whole wheat dough.

Rustic Potato Bread

After college I spent a brief stint making lattes at an upscale grocery store in Seattle. I worked early, early mornings with a few fun gals and one very crazy guy, learned all of my regulars' drink orders and got to taste bread from all of the best bakeries in town. It wasn't a terrible way to spend my transition from college to real life but after about six months I had my fill and was on to bigger and better things, namely moving to New York. Now there's no shortage of delicious bread in NYC, but when I am missing home and needing a little comfort I whip out my Macrina Bakery cookbook and make my favorite bread from my latte days.

Rustic Potato Bread 
adapted from the Macrina Bakery & Cafe Cookbook
yield one (seriously) large loaf

1 1/4lbs russet potatoes (about 2 medium potatoes)
1/2c potato liquid (reserved from Step 1)
1T kosher salt
1 1/2t yeast
2T olive oil
3C flour (plus 1 cup for kneading)

1. Clean the potatoes thoroughly and cut into chunks. Put the potatoes, along with 1t of the salt in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then cook the potatoes for about 10 min or until they are fork tender. Drain the potatoes and reserve 1/2 of the liquid. Let the potatoes and liquid cool for about 20 min.
2. In a small bowl or measuring cup, dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm potato water and let stand 5 min.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, mix the cooled potatoes for about 1 min. Add the olive oil and mix for a minute more, then add the potato water and yeast mixture and mix until completely combined.
4. Switch to the dough hook attachment and add the 3C of flour and the remaining 2t salt. Mix on low to incorporate the flour, then increase the speed to medium and knead for 11 min OR if you are like me and are afraid that bread dough will kill your kitchen aid, knead by hand for 10-15 min. The dough will start out very dry and shaggy, but will become soft and sticky as you knead. I usually end up adding 1/2-3/4c more flour to the mixture as I am kneading. You want the finished dough to be smooth and tacky, but not sticky.
5. When the kneading is finished, form the dough into a ball and place into a lightly oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap or a clean cloth. Set the dough in a warm spot to rise for about 45 min or until the dough is almost doubled in size.
6. Once risen, turn the dough out onto a floured surface and gently flatten and form it into a rectangle about 10'' wide with your hands. Then, roll the dough into a tight log, leaving about 1'' of dough on the end. Use your fingers to flatten this bit of dough and dust it with flour. This will create a decorative top and allow the steam to escape from the loaf while baking. Wrap the loaf, seam side down in a floured kitchen towel and let it proof for 45min. This recipe makes a HUGE loaf of bread, so you might want to split it and make two smaller ones.
7. While the dough is proofing, preheat your oven to 400º and fill a cup with 1/2c water. Carefully unwrap the loaf and place it, seam side up, on a baking sheet. Slide the baking sheet into the hot oven, then toss the water into the bottom of the oven and quickly shut the door. The burst of steam created will give the finished loaf a nice crispy crust. Bake the loaf for about 45min or until it is golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Let cool before slicing.

Notes:

Don't be tempted to peel the potatoes! The skins give the bread really great flavor and texture. Before I got the Macrina cookbook I thought the little flecks in the bread were some variety of delicious herb that I just couldn't place. That said, if you wanted to fancy this recipe up with a bit of thyme or rosemary it would probably be pretty tasty.

I've never tried, but I think this recipe would make a pretty outstanding sandwich loaf (or two) so try it out and let me know how it goes.

Slow Roasted Tomatoes

Last time I visited the u-pick farm I had blueberries on the brain. All I wanted was to walk out of there with a few quarts tucked under my arm to take back to the city and preserve, but the universe had other plans. The blueberries were totally picked over, not a ripe berry in sight. As I tried to hide my dissapointment from my pals by picking all of the zucchini blossoms I could see, I heard someone yell my name from the rows marked tomatoes. No way, I thought, it was still too early for tomatoes, but as I walked down the row I saw the plants become more and more heavy with little yellow cherry tomatoes. I grabbed one and popped it in my mouth. Sweet, sweet summer. I immediately, excitedly started picking the little yellow beauties then stopped and took a big inhale of the vegetal and earthy plants. I put down my basket, put my hands to my face and breathed in the smell of summer. I got lost, thinking of picking tomatoes with my mom from the plants in the front yard, bringing them inside still warm from the sun. I thought of slicing and dressing them with vinegar and salt and pepper, eating them with our fingers then slurping up the juices from the bottom of the bowl or tucking them into sandwiches on toasty wheat bread with mayo. Before I knew it, I had about 2 quarts of tomatoes and my friends were ready to leave so I tucked them under my arm and headed back to the city. I enjoyed them all week in salads like my mom used to make and in pasta with lots of olive oil and basil. I made a batch of salsa and ate them straight from the basket. Then, so I could keep some around a little longer, I took the last pint and roasted them to slumpy perfection.

This is more of a technique than a real recipe, almost silly to even write it down, but here it is. This method produces the tastiest, wrinkliest little tomatoes that are great tossed into a pasta or salad or on a cheese plate with some crusty bread.

Slow Roasted Tomatoes

any variety of small tomatoes sliced in half or larger tomatoes cut into thick slices
olive oil
sea salt
pepper
woody herbs like thyme or rosemary (optional)
garlic cloves with skin on (optional)

Heat your oven to 250º

Arrange the tomato halves, cut side up on a baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. You can also sprinkle some chopped herbs or toss some garlic cloves on the sheet. Roast the tomatoes for 2-2 1/2 hours or until they are wrinkly at the edges.

Store in a jar, covered with olive oil. Use within about a week.

Many Seed Bread

There is something about baking my own bread that makes me feel like a super hero. All it takes is a few simple ingredients and with the magic of yeast, time, patience, and a lot of help from Peter Reinhart, I can create one of life's true culinary pleasures. Nothing beats a warm loaf of hearty, seedy bread ready to be slathered with homemade jam and shared with friends.