Thanksgiving

I've never hosted Thanksgiving dinner so I can't give you any tips on how to roast the juiciest bird or make the fluffiest mashed potatoes (I like them chunky anyway), but I do know how to make some killer Thanksgiving pies. I like to keep it pretty traditional for turkey day and I also like to give people options, so I think I'll end up making some classic pumpkin pies with lots of whipped cream and simple apple tarts with creme fraiche to feed the crowd I'll be dining with this year. I might even get wild and throw some quince or cranberries into my apple tarts, but I think I'll take the temperature of my dinner companions before going for it. I'd love to hear your plans in the comments!

If you are still pondering your own Thanksgiving menu, here are a few recipes from the archives that would be great additions to your holiday spread. Don't forget, you can make pie crust days in advance and freeze it, well wrapped. Just make sure to give the crusts at least 8 hours to defrost in the refrigerator before you roll them out to make your pies.

Apple and Quince Gingerbread
Apple, Quince and Cranberry Pie
Buttermilk Biscuits
Caramelized Pumpkin Puddings (GF)
Classic Apple Pie
Cranberry Quince Preserves (GF)
Persimmon Bread
Quince Custard Cake
Quince Frangipane Tartlets
Quince Upside Down Cake
Skillet Cornbread with Jalapeño Honey Butter (GF)
Squash Harvest Bread
Whole Wheat Cheese Straws

All of these photos are from Thanksgiving 2011 at the beautiful home of a friend in Connecticut. We'll be there again this year and I can't wait!

Special thanks to the reader who gave me the tip about finding winter luxury pumpkins in NYC. I bought three from Tamarack Hollow Farm last Wednesday at the Union Square Greenmarket and I can't wait to roast them and turn them into pie!

Apple and Quince Gingerbread

I hope you're not sick of quince because here's another quince cake to add to your recipe box. You may remember this ginger and quince cake from way back when, but don't worry, this cake has a whole different thing going on. In this preparation the quince are mixed with some sliced apples and a bit of butter and sugar then caramelized before being tucked into a smooth, gingery cake batter. The result is a golden cake with a crisp top that is full of warm spices and it's just perfect for a cozy fall day with a cup of something to warm you.

p.s. I'll be out celebrating Jen Causey's book launch tomorrow night! Will I see any of you guys there?

Apple and Quince Gingerbread
yield 1, 9'' cake
adapted from food52

2 large apples
1 large quince
4 ounces plus 1 ounce butter
4 tablespoons coarse sugar (turbinado or light demerara)
6.5 ounce all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cloves
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3.75 ounces brown sugar
2 eggs
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger root
2 tablespoons molasses
3 tablespoons rum or bourbon
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup buttermilk
10 walnut halves (optional)

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter and flour a 9'' cake pan.

1. Core and peel the apples and quince then cut into thin slices. Melt 1 ounce of butter in a skillet and stir in the apple and quince slices until coated with butter, then add 2 tablespoons coarse sugar. Saute over medium heat stirring occasionally until the fruit has softened and caramelized slightly. Set aside to cool while you prepare the cake batter.
2. In a medium bowl sift the flour, baking soda, salt and spices.
3. In a stand mixer cream the butter and brown sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time. Then beat in the zests, grated ginger, molasses, rum or bourbon and vanilla extract.
4. Slowly stir in the flour mixture followed by the buttermilk until the batter is smooth.
5. Pour half of the batter into the prepared pan, top with the sautéed apples and quince, then pour the rest of the batter on top and smooth with a spatula. Arrange the walnut halves on top (if using) then sprinkle with the remaining coarse sugar.
6. Bake the cake for 45-50 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. This cake is best the day that it's made, but will last for a few days in an airtight container.

Apple, Cranberry, and Quince Pie

First things first, if you live in the United States please VOTE today! Make your voice heard and exercise your rights people. It feels good and you might even get a fun sticker to wear. Then, maybe make a pie to calm your nerves while you wait for the election returns to roll in tonight. You could also just bookmark this one for Thanksgiving and go to your neighborhood watering hole for a pint instead. I won't judge.

Apple, Cranberry and Quince Pie
The combination of sweet apples, tart cranberries, and floral quince is a new favorite of mine and this pie would be a perfect addition to any holiday table. If you can't find quince, just replace it with another apple, but I encourage you to seek it out and give it a try!

For the Crust

This crust comes to you from Brandi Henderson of I made that! and The Pantry at Delancey
where she teaches a class called "How to be a Pie Ninja" and she is not messing around. This
crust is made with  a technique called fraisage which creates long sheets of buttery flakes
throughout the dough instead of little pockets of butter.

12 ounces pastry flour
8 ounces cold butter
4 ounces ice water
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Mix the flour and salt together, then pour the whole lot on a large cutting board or countertop.
2. With a bench scraper, cut in half of the butter until it is the size of lima beans, then cut in the
other half of the butter until it is the size of quarters. Add the apple cider vinegar to the water.
3. Using your fingers, flick the water on to the butter flour mixture and gently fold it in with your
bench scraper. You have added enough water when you can pick up a handful of the dough
and squeeze it together without it falling apart.
4. Then, you smear the butter into the dough. With the heel of your hand push a section of the
dough down and away from you. Scrape your sheet off of the board and place it in a bowl to
the side. Repeat until you have worked through all of the dough, pushing it down and away
from you in sections. Once you've gone through all of the dough gently remove it from the bowl,
press it together, then split it in half, and wrap each half in plastic wrap and form into a disk.
Chill the dough for at least one hour before using. I like to chill mine overnight.

For the Filling

4 large apples (about 2.5 lbs) I like mutsus, jonathans, golden delicious, and cortlands
1 large quince
1 cup fresh cranberries
1/2-3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup all purpose flour
zest and juice of one small lemon
zest and juice of half of an orange
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter

Peel and core the the apples then cut them into 1/2'' chunks. Peel and core the quince and cut it into 1/4'' pieces. Place the apples, quince and cranberries in a large bowl then add lemon
and orange juices and zests, stir gently to combine. Add the rest of the filling ingredients (except
the butter) and stir gently to combine.

For the Topping

1 egg, beaten
A few teaspoons of coarse sugar like turbinado or light demerara

To Assemble and Bake

Preheat oven to 400º

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one piece of the dough into a 12’’ circle 1/4''-1/8'' thick
and place it into a 9 or 10 inch pie pan. Place in the fridge while you prepare the rest of the pie.
2. Roll out the other piece of dough into a 12'' circle about 1/4''-1/8'' thick and place it in the
fridge to chill while you prepare the filling.
3. Fill the prepared pie shell with the apple mixture, dot with the 2 tablespoons butter, and top
with the second crust, trim the edges so there is about 1/2’’ of overhang then crimp the edges
and cut a few vents in the top. If you'd like to make a lattice top (like the pie pictured), here is a really great step-by-step slideshow from Bon Appetit.com.
4. If the crust seems soft or warm, slide the whole pie into the fridge or freezer for about 15min
before you bake it. When you are ready to bake brush the top of the pie with a beaten egg and
sprinkle with a healthy dose of coarse sugar.
5. Put the pie on a baking sheet to catch any drips and bake for 15 minutes on the lowest rack
of your oven, then lower the oven temp to 350º and bake for 40-50 minutes or until the crust is
deep golden brown and the fruit juices bubble. For extra shine, glaze the pie with another coat
of egg wash 10 minutes before you take it out of the oven, but keep a close eye on it to prevent burning.

Thanksgiving in Connecticut

Every year that I've lived in New York I've done something different for Thanksgiving. I quite enjoy going from place to place, seeing how other families celebrate and I always feel honored when I am asked to participate in their traditions. This year we spent the holiday at the home of a dear friend in Connecticut and it was amazing. The house has the most incredible kitchen with a big, solid cast iron stove, a larder, and even a butler's pantry full of dishes from all over the world. Its one of those places that is so full of positive warm energy that it is impossible not to have a fabulous time. When my hosts found out that I was a baker by trade they asked me to dream up some desserts for a few dinners including Thanksgiving and I was more than happy to pitch in. I kept my Turkey Day pies pretty traditional, two pumpkin and apple with all butter crusts, and topped them with freshly whipped cream. So what if the crusts got a little burnt because my designated oven turner-downer got distracted while engrossed in a good book, the apple pie pictured here fared far better than the pumpkin. These weren't my best looking pies ever, but the plates were licked clean and we were all contently stuffed and in bed before 10pm. The next day we made brownie sundaes with hot fudge and salted caramel sauce (for 20) but it was too dark to snap a photo. Needless to say, they were a big hit.

All Butter Crust from here
Apple Filling from here
Pumpkin Filling from here plus a few grates of nutmeg

Cranberry Quince Preserves

I don't know about you guys but come Thanksgiving Day I am all about the sides. I usually skip the turkey all together, opting to pile my plate high with stuffing, potatoes and veggies while making sure to save lots of room for pie and ice cream. Cranberry sauce tends to be an overlooked and generally unliked part of turkey day dinner, but for me, no holiday spread is complete without a big bowl of the vibrant red stuff. This year I can't wait to crack open a jar of this sweet, spicy, tart preserve and slather it on some parker house rolls and I am going to send my family in Seattle a jar so they can do the same. What is your favorite part of Thanksgiving?

Cranberry Quince Preserves
yield, about 4 pints

3/4lb fresh or frozen cranberries
1 1/2lbs peeled, cored, and diced quince (1/2'' sized pieces)
4c sugar
3c water (ed 11/12)
2 oz peeled and grated fresh ginger, about a 3'' long piece, less if you would prefer a less spicy preserve
Zest and juice of one lemon
Zest and juice of one orange
cleaned and sterilized jars and lids

1. In a large pot over medium high heat dissolve the sugar into the water, then add the chopped quince, grated ginger, lemon zest and juice, and the orange zest and juice. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the quince is soft. About 15 min.
2. When the quince has softened, add in the cranberries and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook until the cranberries have popped and the mixture has thickened slightly, about 15-20min.
3. Ladle the hot preserves into prepared jars, wipe the rims with a clean towel and process in a hot water bath for 10min.