Rhubarb and Gin Sorbet with Rose Cream

When Spring finally arrives every year I don't get worked up about ramps or spring onions when they hit the market. I enjoy sunshine and magnolia blooms and dogwood trees and cherry blossoms just as much as the next gal, but the only thing I really get excited about every May is rhubarb. It is my very favorite vegetable disguised as fruit to cook with and it is so welcome after a long winter of apples and pears.



We get plenty of delicious rhubarb in NYC, but I can never seem to find locally grown barb that is as vibrant in color as the stuff I used to find in the Northwest. I hear it is because those deep red plant starts are hard to find in the Northeast, but thanks to an online friend turned real-life friend I recently found myself with a glut of the most perfectly rosy red stalks of homegrown rhubarb. Camille to the rescue! With gorgeous rhubarb! Maybe I'll just have to keep my eye out for a deep red rhubarb start next time I am visiting my family to bring back with me.

This year, to start off my rhubarb extravaganza (and there will be an extravaganza) I bring to you this wonderfully complex dessert that is surprisingly simple to put together. It is cool and tart, floral and herbal, creamy and sweet all in one. If I was Southern I might say, y'all gotta try this one. Instead I will say, seriously you guys, if you have an ice cream machine this should be the first thing you make with it this Spring.

If you peek over at the sidebar you may notice something new and very exciting. I am so happy to announce that this here blog was featured as one of Saveur's Sites We Love. You can check out the post here.

Oh, and sorry for the extended break between my last post. I'll be back soon, with more rhubarb! More rhubarb recipes from the archives of this blog can be found here.

Rhubarb and Gin Sorbet with Rose Cream

Rhubarb and Gin Sorbet 
yield, roughly one quart
The herbal flavor of gin complements the sweet-tartness of this rhubarb sorbet wonderfully and the small amount of alcohol makes the frozen sorbet perfectly scoopable. If you don't like gin, feel free to substitute vodka or leave the booze out entirely for a more family-friendly treat. Just make sure to thaw the sorbet for a few minutes before scooping.

8 ounces water
7 ounces granulated sugar
1 lb rhubarb stalks, the rosiest red ones you can find, chopped into 1-inch pieces
2 Tablespoons lime juice (or the juice of one juicy lime)
2 Tablespoons light corn syrup
2 Tablespoons gin, plus a bit more to serve (I used Hendrick's)

1. Combine the sugar and water in a medium sized saucepan and heat on medium high, stirring occasionally until  the sugar dissolves. Add in the rhubarb and simmer until the rhubarb is very tender and beginning to fall apart, about 10 minutes.
2. Carefully transfer the mixture to a blender (or use an immersion blender) and blend until smooth. Add in the lime juice and corn syrup. Chill thoroughly.
3. Just before churning, stir in the gin. Freeze the chilled mixture in an ice cream machine, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Store in the freezer in an airtight container.

Rose Cream
The soft perfume of rose water goes beautifully with tart rhubarb sorbet, but if you don't like the idea of flowers in your food feel free to leave it out. The sorbet is wonderful on its own. For vegan rose cream, try whipping chilled coconut milk. Instructions can be found on this post from the archives.

4 ounces chilled heavy cream
4-8 drops rose water
2 teaspoons granulated sugar (vanilla sugar if you have it)

Whip the cream to soft peaks then add in the sugar, followed by the rose water (one drop at a time) until desired flavor is reached.

To Serve

Top scoops of sorbet with a few drops of chilled gin and a spoonful of rose cream.

Blood Orangecello

Since we last met, P and have I traded apartment 2b for apartment #2, in a new neighborhood across the river. We spent our first six years in this grand city in a lovely and bright studio apartment near Central Park and I will spare you all the nostalgia trip that we went on while packing up that part of our lives, but I will share this extremely insightful pearl of wisdom: Moving is hard. Not just the packing and stacking and spackling and painting. It's the moving on that will get you.



Even though we were ready for the change, the transition was tough. I may have shed a few sentimental tears as we waved goodbye to our giant non-functional fireplace and exposed brick wall, but onward and upward. I mean, in our new place, we have a spice drawer (!) and a big huge window in the kitchen which seems utterly luxurious after cooking in this space for so long. We also have an entire room just for sleeping and a separate one for eating too. This is known to the rest of the world as a bed room and dining room respectively and these things are very exciting for a couple who lived together in one room for six years.

After the chaos from the move settled, I realized a bit too late that I had missed most of citrus season. I mean, I probably ate my weight in grapefruit, but I didn't really make anything (unlike last year's citrus bonanza), mostly because we didn't have any kitchen cabinets or counters for a few weeks, but that's another story for another day. For now, there's this blood orangecello and even though our new place is still a bit, ehem, rough around the edges, it's nothing that a little sip of something boozy and some more paint can't fix.

Blood Orangecello
adapted from Jammy Chicken
This is a variation on the ever popular Italian spirit limoncello. It tastes wonderful poured over a citrus sorbet or sip it as is. Just make sure it is very, very cold.

8 blood oranges
4 cups vodka
2 cups granulated sugar
Large glass jar with a tight fitting lid

Wash and scrub your citrus thoroughly. Use a Y peeler to remove the zest from the oranges, being careful not to get any of the white pith. Add the zest to the large glass jar. Juice the oranges and add the juice to the jar. Pour in the vodka and sugar, put the lid on the jar and shake vigorously for about 30 seconds.

Store the jar in a cool, dry place and shake it everyday for a week. Then after that shake the jar about once a week for at least 3 weeks and up to 6. After 3-6 weeks, strain the mixture into a clean jar to remove the zest, then strain again through a coffee filter.

Store the finished blood orangecello in the freezer and enjoy it very, very cold.

Blueberry Buckwheat Tartlets with Greek Yogurt Cream

The arrival of blueberries at the market (and the farm) signals the start of summer for me. I know they aren't the first fruit to show up to the party, but something about their patriotic hue screams picnics and bbqs, and hot, lazy nights. Where I live, blueberries are plentiful and cheap so I turn to them often for fun, summer treats like these tartlets. 



I baked these little beauties last week on a 90+ degree day when, in a fit of heat induced crazy, I decided to crank up the oven and turn on the stovetop at the same time. What can I say, the blueberries in the fridge were calling and I had to answer despite my assertion that I would not turn the oven on during the heatwave...oops.

I like the combination of fresh and barely-sweetened, cooked fruit here, but if you aren't feeling up to the task of cooking three different components just use fresh berries, any kind you like or maybe some sliced stone fruit. For something a bit sweeter I imagine a dollop of jam would make a fine topping too. I guess what I am saying is that when you have sweet summer fruit at your disposal, you pretty much can't go wrong.



And can we talk about this Greek yogurt cream for a second? It is cool and smooth and just slightly tart which makes it a perfect foil for any fruit you have laying around and nearly impossible to resist eating straight from the fridge. I am already imagining making these little tarts again later this summer, topped with some bourbon spiked peaches.

Blueberry Buckwheat Tartlets with Greek Yogurt Cream

For the Buckwheat Tart Shells
adapted from Desserts for Breakfast
yield, 6 tartlets or 1, 9'' tart

5 1/2 ounces all purpose flour
3 1/2 ounces buckwheat flour
2 ounces sugar
pinch salt
1 egg yolk
4 ounces cold butter
2-3 ounces iced water

1. In a large bowl, stir together the flours, sugar and salt. Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut in the butter until it is the size of small peas.
2. Add in the egg yolk and stir gently until it is evenly distributed, then slowly stream in the water until the dough will hold together when you press it with your fingers. Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap and press it into a disk. Refrigerate for one hour. (While the dough is chilling you can prepare the pastry cream, recipe below)
3. To bake the tart shells: Preheat oven to 425ºF and lightly butter 6 removable-bottom tartlet pans.
4. Remove the dough from the fridge and cut it into 6 pieces. Press the dough evenly into the prepared pans and prick the bottoms with a fork. If the dough has softened, refrigerate or freeze it for a few minutes or until it is firm again. Line each tartlet pan with parchment paper or aluminum foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans.
5. Bake the tart shells for 13-15 minutes or until the edges begin to brown. Remove the pie weights or beans and return to the oven to bake for 3-5 minutes more, or until the crust is completely golden brown. Let the shells cool completely before filling and serving.

Greek Yogurt Pastry Cream

8 ounces whole milk
3 egg yolks
1 3/4 ounces sugar
3/4 ounce cornstarch
1/2 vanilla bean, scraped or 1t vanilla extract
1 ounce cold butter
6 ounces plain greek yogurt (non-fat, low-fat or full-fat will all work)

1. Bring the milk to a simmer in a small saucepan with the scraped vanilla bean and pod
2. In another saucepan, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch until well blended. While whisking, slowly stream in about 1/4c of the hot milk to temper the egg mixture. Continue whisking and pour in the remainder of the hot milk. Remove the vanilla bean pod and reserve for another use.
3. Put the pan over medium heat and whisk vigorously, making sure to get into the bottom and sides of the pan. Bring the mixture to a low simmer and cook until thick, about 1-2 minutes. If you are using vanilla extract, now's the time to whisk it in.
4. Add in the butter and whisk the cream until smooth, transfer to a bowl and press a layer of plastic wrap directly on the surface. Refrigerate until cold and set.
5. After the cream has thoroughly chilled, whisk in the greek yogurt until smooth and evenly combined. Store tightly covered in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Blueberry Filling

12 ounces blueberries, divided
2T honey
2T Gran Marnier (optional)
Zest and juice of 1/2 orange

1. Combine 1/2 of the blueberries, honey, Gran Marnier (if desired) and orange juice and zest in a medium skillet. Warm the berries on medium low heat until they begin to burst and release their juices. 2. Turn the heat up to medium and gently simmer the berries until they are thick and syrupy, about 3-5 minutes. Stir in the remaining fresh blueberries, reserving a few to garnish the tops of the tarts. Refrigerate the mixture until cold.

To Assemble

Divide the Greek Yogurt Pastry Cream between the tart shells, top with a heaping spoonful of the Blueberry Filling and top with additional fresh blueberries and a zip of orange zest of desired (not pictured).  Serve immediately for crisp tart shells. The assembled tarts can also be refrigerated for an hour or so before you serve them, but as they sit in the refrigerator the shells will soften.

The extra blueberry mixture can be enjoyed on the top of yogurt, ice cream, oatmeal, toast or on its own.

Rice Pudding with Old Fashioned Oranges

It's easy to hibernate in New York in the winter. It's cold and grey, the wind whips through the buildings straight to my bones, and the walk from my warm cozy apartment to the subway seems immeasurably long. This season, in an effort to spend more time together and keep ourselves from getting too lonely, some pals and I are going to make an effort to have a Sunday meal together a few times a month, a Sunday roast if you will. I don't know about you guys, but I will pretty much always show up when someone invites me for dinner, public transportation and weather be damned. Our inaugural dinner was a few weeks ago and I offered to bring along a sweet something to end the meal. I knew I needed something that was easy to transport and I wanted it to be both comforting and light, so I turned to the most comforting dessert I could think of then lightened it up with a healthy dose of citrus. Then, because it's winter, I put some booze in it. These chilled, boozy oranges are the perfect foil to creamy rice pudding and the perfect thing to share with friends, elbow to elbow, in someone else's warm cozy apartment. Now, getting up from the table and heading home is another story.

For the Pudding
Adapted from Martha Stewart's Pies and Tarts

1c arborio rice
4 1/2c milk
1/2 vanilla bean
1/2c sugar
pinch salt
1 cara cara, navel or blood orange
3/4c heavy cream
1 egg yolk

1. In a medium bowl zest the orange directly in the sugar then scrape the vanilla bean and add the seeds into the sugar mixture. Rub the sugar, zest and seeds with your fingers until it is all evenly distributed.
2. Supreme the orange over a bowl, and squeeze the membrane to extract as much juice as possible. Strain off the juice and reserve for later, you should have between 1/4-1/3c of juice. You will use the orange segments later as well.
3. In a medium saucepan combine the rice, milk, salt, sugar mixture and vanilla bean pod. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally until the rice is tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, about 30min. Remove the vanilla bean pod, rinse it off and save it for another use.
4. In a large bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, egg yolks and reserved orange juice. Slowly add the hot rice mixture while whisking constantly. Return the entire mixture to a saucepan and cook over medium low heat until the mixture boils and thickens, about 10min. Remove from heat and cool slightly before serving. This can also be served room temperature or chilled. If you find the chilled rice pudding is too firm, loosen it up by stirring in a few tablespoons of milk or heavy cream.

Old Fashioned Oranges (like the cocktail)
Adapted from Alice Medrich's Pure Dessert

4 cara cara, navel or blood oranges (plus the one from the rice pudding)
2/3c sugar
3T whiskey

1. Zest the oranges into a medium sized bowl. Use a sharp knife to cut away the tops and bottoms of the oranges then using a sharp knife, cut the white pith away from the fruit and discard it. Over the bowl with the reserved zest, carefully cut the wedges of fruit away from the membrane and seeds, letting the fruit and juices fall into the bowl, add the reserved orange segments and juices from the rice pudding. Add the whiskey, then arrange the fruit and juices in a shallow dish, something like a 9x13 baking dish.
2. Spread the sugar into a large, dry skillet over medium heat and cook without stirring until the sugar starts to melt into a clear syrup. Turn the heat down a bit and continue cooking the syrup without stirring, you may shake the pan a little to distribute the sugar evenly.
3. When the syrup begins to color, stir gently with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula to make sure it colors and cooks evenly. When the syrup is amber in color, remove it from the heat and stir until the syrup is a reddish amber color, the color of medium dark honey.
4. Immediately pour the hot caramel over the oranges, they may spit and sputter a bit. The caramel will harden when it comes into contact with the oranges. Cover the dish and refrigerate for at least one hour and up to 2 days. In that time the caramel will slowly melt into a syrup, perfect for drizzling.

To assemble:

Layer the rice pudding and oranges in small dishes and garnish with chopped pistachios, I forgot to add them in these photos.

Notes:

- The host made some chocolate espresso cookies that we served alongside the pudding and it was a fantastic combo.